I know it has been almost 2 months since I last posted anything on the blog and so I understand if no one is actually checking this thing anymore. I do plan to continue to update the blog, but I only plan to do so when I do something fun, exciting, Latin, or generally worthwhile
That being said, I have just had 3 weeks of wonderful cultural experiences and parties. I was unexpectedly on days off for 3 full weeks in Quito. Unfortunately the nature of this job means that I only found out a few days at a time that I still had more time off, and so I was not able to take a trip home or anywhere else for that matter. At one point I did find out that I had 8 to 10 days off (the last 10 days I was off), but as I will describe in detail, this corresponded with the height of QuitoFest (Festivo De Quito) which meant that the whole city was going crazy with parties, a good time to stay put.
I was having trouble remembering what all I did, so I put together a timeline for the three weeks off… I have included it here because I thought it was funny that it took so much effort (I stared blankly at my computer screen for almost an hour trying to remember the days and order of things) and because it provides a good outline of the events I have to talk about. J
After my last stint on the rig, I headed back to Quito on the Friday before Thanksgiving.
November
Fri 18 Travel from the rig to Quito.
Sat 19 Hung out with Alberto, Didi, Karla, Fernando, Andrea
Sun 20 No idea, but I think there may have been some NFL watching
Mon 21 Monday Night Football – Colts Dominant!
Tues 22
Wed 23 (not sure what I did these three days, but I think it was mostly relaxing)
Thurs 24
Fri 25 Hmmm… I don’t remember what I did, but I think it involved a bar…
Sat 26 Lunch w/ Karla, Argentine Tango/Electronica concert, Soul, Blues
Sun 27 Bull Fight w/Luis – Erika / Gabby
Mon 28 Went to work… hehe… was there almost 6 hours… exhausting…
Tues 29 Flamenco Show w/Erika/Byron
Wed 30 Concert at Blues w/ Byron
December
Thurs 1 Lorena’s going away…
Fri 2 Chiva, Ramon Antigua
Sat 3 Mexican Restaurant… Too drunk on tequila
Sun 4 Cell phone gone, went to Lunch with luis/Alberto, chilled a home…
Mon 5 Relaxing day, Dinner at Tony Roma’s and trip to see Harry Potter 4
Tues 6 My Birthday!!! DVD shopping, Dinner Mea Culpa
Wed 7 Guayabamba w/ Anabela
Thurs 8 Relaxing night at home
Fri 9 Off to a Rig… different rig than before… we’ll see how it goes.
It was just luck that I got so much time off - it is very rare to get more than a week off without taking vacation time. And it was just a lucky coincidence that my three weeks off coincided with the annual Festival of Quito, a marathon of parties, street concerts, and celebration leading up to my birthday, December 6th. Dec. 6 also happens to be the day Quito was founded, but that is a secondary reason for the festivities… :)
My roommate Alberto, another field engineer, suffered a serious back injury (herniated disk) about 10 days before I got back to Quito and so was laid up in the apartment when I got back. Over the three weeks I was there he showed significant improvement but still has to walk slowly and has occasional soreness or numbness of his legs. He is 28… the good news is that he is expected to make a full recovery and will not need surgery, but it certainly drives home the need to use caution (and proper lifting technique) in this job. He was lifting the same tool I am currently running from the ground, where we assemble it, to the catwalk where it is raised by a crane to the rig floor… Anyway, he is doing much better but will never work on rigs again as he is moving to an office position.
Anyway, all I wanted to say was that my roommate was around the entire time I was in Quito which is unusual, but that he wasn’t quite as wild a partier as normal because of his back injury. I did meet several of his friends and got to know him much better. I spent my first Saturday back from the rig hanging out with his friends Didi, Karla, Andrea, and Fernando… They are a very fun group of Ecuadorians that all speak English. Didi is finishing her university studies and plans to apply to Architecture graduate schools in the US and Europe. Karla works as a tax and legal consultant for Ernst and Young…
I took it pretty easy the first week back. I moved to a new apartment about a month and a half ago but just managed to move into the room that is “mine” this last trip. For those of you who don’t know, this signified the first time I had truly unpacked into a proper bedroom since I arrived in Ecuador in July. The first apartment I was in had too many people and I didn’t have a bedroom, just a bed in a small room with no door or furniture (other than the bed). My new apartment is great. It is very big and all three of us have our own bedrooms and bathrooms. We are starting to make it feel more like a home, even going as far as to buy a home theater surround sound stereo. It feels very good to have a place that is mine.
On Saturday, November 26, I went to a concert at Theatro Bolivar in the old city of Quito with my roommate, his girlfriend Christina, Didi and Karla… The concert was a fusion of Argentinean Tango and Electronica music.. Imagine driving club style base lines and music that forms a base that a piano, accordion, violin, standup bass, etc. play over top of to create a truly unique sound. It was actually really cool. Plus the theater was huge and had suffered a fire or something and they are just starting to renovate it so there were lots of exposed columns and concrete and the balcony was mostly a ruin… it really added to the whole experience to have the theater feel like a giant ruin… unfortunately I forgot my camera that night… sorry… The good news is that I remembered my camera the other times I went to the old city and so I have some fun pics of other theaters and buildings down there all lit up at night. While I really enjoyed the instrumentation and they were very good, I sort of felt like all the songs started to sound the same after a while. They only played one that had any vocals. Anyway, it was an interesting experience and truly unique to Latin America…
After the concert we went to a bar called Blues that has become one of my favorite bars in the city. They normally play rock and metal music but on this night they were playing club “house” music. The band from the concert was there partying (not performing) which gave it a neat “after party feel.” That was it for Saturday night…
I slept until 11:40 am on Sunday… that was when my manager called and told me to hurry and get down to the Bull Fighting Arena to go to the bull fights with him… Now, only a few days before I had expressed a general objection to bull fighting as a sport. I could have decided not to go but I thought that 1) I should witness it before deciding to condemn the “sport” and 2) that it is a well known part of Spanish and Latin culture, and so too good a cultural opportunity to pass up.
I took a lot of pictures of the bull fights which you will get a link to, but I want to warn you that it is a violent “sport” and even though I tried to weed out any disturbing pictures, you may not want to look at them if you are hyper sensitive to that sort of thing. Feel free to post comments on this blog condemning me or the sport or anything you want, but I don’t want irate emails or phone calls (although, if you can figure out how to call me on an oil rig in the middle of the Amazon jungle, feel free to yell at me as you will have earned the right for being so clever)… :)
So, I have a couple of observations to share with regard to bull fighting. It is first and foremost a big outdoor drinking party. It was a beautiful day. There were three stages set up around the arena with live music and a carnival going on outside. There were 6 different bull fights that day. Each bull fight consists of 5 parts. First the bull is brought out and there are matadors with the capes that get the bull to take a few passes at them. Depending on the size and how aggressive the bull is the matadors may just peak out from behind the walls to get the bull to charge over, or they may get out into the arena with the bull. At this point, the bull is definitely in charge. The second part is the most disturbing and the part the audience doesn’t like. A man rides out on a horse that is covered with pads to protect it from the bulls horns and the man has a spear and he sticks the bull with the spear 2 to 4 times between the should blades in a place intended to bleed quite a bit. This has the effect of over time weakening the bull. The third part consists of one or multiple matadors essentially playing chicken with the bull, getting it to charge and timing it just right to allow them to stick the bull with short spears that are barbed and normally decorated with colorful ribbons. The spears stick in the bull and are left in dangling colorfully. After 2 to 4 spears have been stuck in the bull the final matador comes out for the fourth part which is the part we associate with bull fighting, having the bull charge at a red cape, stepping aside at the last minute. The matador will dance with the bull in this way for anywhere from 10 to 20 minutes in what is essentially a battle for dominance. The bull is wounded and bleeding, but the matador is not further wounding it, he is staring the bull down and dancing with it. At some point trumpets play indicating that it is time for the matador to end the match and he times his pass and then kills the bull with a single sword thrust.
The audience is very respectful of the bull and boos etc. when the man on the horse is wounding the bull. I was glad the crowd was respectful and not the least bit blood thirsty. My guess is that this is a change in the last 50 years or so… Oh yeah, and one of the matadors got trampled and gored by the bull he was fighting… he was well enough to finish the fight, but that match the audience felt the bull had won.
OK, so, my feelings, now that I’ve been to a bull fight are as follows: I don’t like bull fighting. I can’t help but feel really bad for the bull. That being said, I would caution Americans of being too judgmental. It would be easy for me to claim some moral high ground and just say it is wrong to hurt an animal like that or to kill an animal for sport, but what I instead thought about was in what situations animals might be treated in a brutal manner in the US. I thought of two examples of socially accepted instances where animals are treated so in the states… 1) bow hunting… Hunting in general is less brutal because it is a quick death (although I doubt that is much consolation to all the bambis) but often times bow hunters fail to kill their prey with a single arrow and instead have to track a wounded animal for up to an hour before killing it. 2) factory farms… I have seen some very disturbing documentaries on the treatment of cows, pigs, chickens, and turkeys raised for food in the US. When you compare the lifelong torment of the animals that end up on US supermarket shelves with the 20 minute fight between a bull and a man, there is no question that the bull has the better deal. Not all beef, chicken, and pork in the US comes from Factory Farms, but an awful lot of it does, and it is really horrendous how those animals are treated their whole lives… Anyway, I try to be very careful about being too judgmental or falling into the trap of thinking Americans are “better” or something when I am faced with cultural differences, like bull fighting.
I should also say that I have met MANY Ecuadorians that hate bull fighting and think it is “wrong” (although I get the impression that in Mexico and Venezuela it is more generally enjoyed). Also, if you were wondering, the bulls are apparently treated very well while being raised and are raised and bred specifically for the bull fighting arena… Free ranged, lots of cows to mate with, etc. :)
Now that I’ve covered the right vs. wrong of bull fighting, I can tell you I had a fabulous time. Like I said, it was a big outdoor drinking party and it was a beautiful day. I bought a sombrero (apparently that is the word for cowboy hats too, not just the round floppy hats we normally think of as sombrero’s… I bought the cowboy style – I haven’t even seen one of the others here, again, a Mexican thing more than a latin thing). My manager and I, between the two of us drank 5 bottles of cheap red wine and about 8 beers… neither of us ate anything before either… needless to say, we were trashed. I didn’t even watch the last two bull fights. I was too busy getting to know all the people sitting around us.
One last thing about the bull fights. The 4th bull fight, the matador fought the bull from Horse back. The Horses were BEAUTIFUL and amazing in how they responded instantly to the rider… they were truly show horses… they would dance in place, rear, spin, anything the rider asked of them. My friend tells me that it is a popular investment for drug lords which has made those horses prized and valued (some of them) in the hundreds of thousands of dollar range… He may have been exaggerating, but it wouldn’t surprise me if not. I got a great video of the horse and rider. Anyway, still felt bad for the bull, but I admit the matador on horse back put on a hell of a show… Oh yeah, one more last thing ;) after the matador killed the bull, when the audience was applauding they would throw their hats down to him, it was really cool, he or some of his helpers, would pick up the hats and throw them back to the person who saluted him by throwing the hat down. People in the audience were really great about making sure the hat got passed back to the owner. Anyway, kind of a neat tradition.
We were so drunk after the bull fight that we went to dinner then I walked home and drunk dialed my mom and some friends (you have to love international drunk dialing on the work cell phone – sorry about that ********) I was awake for 8 hours that day… I then slept for 14… I woke up three times with a killer headache from the cheap wine and had to drink lots of water and take some advil.
Flamenco Show
I went to a Flamenco show with Erika and Byron. Erika is my friend from Mexico that those of you who have been looking through my photo albums have seen several times and Byron is my other roommate… Alberto is the roommate that hurt his back, Byron just bought a brand new BMW (sweet ride). Anyway, the flamenco show was just ok. Again, a good cultural experience, but not something I need to do again. The live music was good, but I didn’t care for the singing, even though my friend told me that was the “style”. The singers sounded hoarse or something. I much prefer powerful, clean, impressive vocals in live performance (see Les Mis or Phantom of the Opera), but whatever. The guitar players were very good. The dancing was just ok. I’m sure they were very good at flamenco, I am just not (as it turns out) that big a fan of flamenco. It is sort of like tap dancing or Irish Folk dancing, that is to say, it is all about how fast they move their feet. The thing is, it didn’t have the flair of American Tap or the coordination of the Irish Folk (at least in the lord of the dance / riverdance versions where there are lots of people dancing together). Instead, it is one dancer at a time doing about 15 or 30 seconds of dance steps as fast as they can and then playing for applause. It is also a very mad or sad dance and so they always look severe in their facial expressions. Anyway, just ok but not worth what we paid for really good tickets.
Concert
I’m sorry but I don’t know the name of the Ecuadorian rock group we saw on Wednesday night (it was actually Thursday morning since the concert started at 1:00 am – I’m telling you, this Quito Fest is 3 weeks of non-stop partying, who goes to a concert at 1:00am during the week…) but the concert was great. The group I saw was described sort of as Ecuador’s version of Pearl Jam and I was led to believe that it was really unusual for this group that is hugely popular to perform a concert in a little club (it was at Blues). Anyway, $10 and a great show and fun time. Byron and I wooed many a lady with our dance moves…
Lorena’s going away party.
A friend here from Ecuador that works for the same company I do has just been transferred to Midland, Texas. We threw here a going away party, also called the “welcome to the middle of nowhere party” or as I like to think of it the “enjoy being hit on by cowboys who’s trucks are worth more than their houses party”… whatever you call it, we had a good time. We started at Buster’s, a Scottish pub, and then 4 of us headed to a club after and had lots of fun dancing to classic American tunes…
La Chiva and Ramon Antigua
The office arranged for La Chiva… This is nuts… during Quito Fest you see all these big, open air buses driving around the city with music and partiers hanging all over them. I thought there was no way my company would get one as it isn’t that safe to mix drinking and hanging on the sides and roof of a bus driving around a major city like Quito… well, I was wrong and what a great time we had. A big group of folks from the office road around drinking on the bus and partying for about an hour and then went to a bar and kept the party going for most of the night. I was one of the only people with a camera and everyone got in the spirit of taking and posing for fun pictures… I ended up with 160 pics… I trimmed that number down to 108 to post them to the web and I may weed out some more of them, but it was a great party. You’ll see more of it in the pics if you check those out. Good times.
The next night I went to a Mexican restaurant with Erica, Daniel, and Yirccy… we were supposed to go for dinner but there was a live band and it was just a big party and we never did eat any dinner. We were drinking Sangria and having a great time when the shots started… after two shots of tequila and one shot of a black lickerish flavored liquor someone in our group decided it would be a good idea to buy an entire bottle of Tequila… Well, 3 or 4 of us finished the entire bottle in about 20 minutes and that is the last thing I remember from that night. We were having a great time dancing and hanging out, but that all ended when the Tequila started. I lost my jacket and my cell phone and I don’t remember leaving, getting in the cab or getting home and going to bed… Apparently I drunk dialed a friend in the states on my cell phone shortly before losing it (sorry about that Amanda) and apparently sounded bad enough that she was worried enough to call my mom to try to get my number and call me back and make sure I was ok.. anyway, not a good thing. The good news is that one of my friends picked up my Jacket but my phone is gone… Surprisingly I wasn’t hungover the next day, just confused about how I got home.
The next few days I took it pretty easy having done my fair share of partying for QuitoFest . Then for my birthday I bought some DVD’s and went out to a great dinner with a big group of friends, very fun…
I know this has been way too long but I want to say a few more things about the Festivo De Quito… For the entire three weeks, almost every night, there were impromptu street parties in front of all the best located liquor stores. The stores wouldn’t even let people in, they would cell booze through the metal gates over the entrance. People would just park in front and have the car stereos up loud and stand around outside drinking and partying. At a number of the liquor stores located in the coolest parts of the city the party would grow to a couple hundred people. It was NUTS.
The other interesting part of Quito fest was all the organized street parties that I guess the city would put on. They would shut down this major street that runs along the big park in the middle of the city and set up stages and have booths and food and alcohol, concerts, just a big party. The cool thing was that my apartment was one block from the heart of the party. Now, I didn’t actually go to any of them because they are reported to get out of hand from time to time and people get killed in the brawls that can break out (although I don’t think there were any incidents like that this year) but I could hear them and see them from my apartment which was fun.
OK, that does it for Quito Fest. Sorry it is so long and Sorry I haven’t had more posts. I can tell you it will probably be a long time before my next post as I will be on the rig for most of the holidays and then I head to the States on January 13 for some vacation time and then 2 months of technical school in Houston.
Oh, for those who might be interested in a South American adventure, I’m thinking of putting together a big trip for one year from now. I’m thinking I will do some travel before Christmas (after I finish my time working here), maybe do a week in the Galapagos and another week traveling around Ecuador, then go home for the Holidays and come back and travel all of January going to Machu Picchu in Peru, Patagonia in Argentina, Bogota for the ladies, the Andes in Chile, maybe a stop in Brazil… I’m not sure where all I will go and the plans are very much up in the air at the moment, but I definitely want to see a lot of South America before I leave and with a trip to Europe scheduled for next summer and possibly my brother’s wedding in October (if that is when they hold it) in Australia, I think my best opportunity will be after I’ve finished my work here before starting in my next role in Houston.
So, yeah, if you want to join me for any or all of that, I’d love to have the company. Let me know in an email and I will keep you posted.
Ok, back to work you slackers… my life isn’t that interesting anyway… :) take care and I can’t wait to hopefully see many of you while I’m in the states this Jan – March.
-Nate